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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.